The adventures in Costa Blanca just continue to come. Following on from our success on Parle, a sea cliff/cave climb, that tested our ability to the max, we thought we’d head north and take on another time and again recommended climb, Sonjannika at Morro Falgui. I initially found out about this route when searching for must do routes in the area, only for it to be recommended later by other climbers. This firmly put it on our radar, add to this the fact it’s a prominent sea cliff, 6 pitches and 170 metres long!
The walk in was a micro adventure in its own right, following a Gorge to an isolated beach at it’s end. This was surrounded by overhanging cliffs, on which useful information boards educated us about local fishermen who used to sleep in the caves, and set up a large pots to catch the water that would seep through the cliff and drip from the stalactites, giving them Evian on tap so to speak! We traversed under the cliffs and scrambled down to the foot of the cliffs and soon spotted red marks that gave us our start point.
The first pitch was a simple affair and very easy at the grade. The next was much more interesting and the beginning at least was a little tasty for a five, although up to this point the climbing had been fun, it was nothing to write home about. From this point the climb took a line to a couple of small caves stacked atop of one another. Jess was sat in the lower on a self built belay, as she had been unable to find the bolts, I climbed into the next cave and saw the bolts around the corner, not the end of world and so carried on to one of the most exposed fives I’ve ever been on. It was akin to stepping out into the abyss, below you the world sank away, as 100 metres of wind sweot air filled the gap between my feet and the sea below. It was pretty intimidating! The climb eased after this to a block on a ledge for a rest at the belay! It’s a real shame that we could not get pictures of this part of the climb as I’m sure they would be amazing.
Sat on the block with my shoes off, I could have been at the beach! Jess came up and after a quick chat about how cool the pitch was set off up the crux 6a plus, and she aced it. I had to follow with the bag, and regretted the extra weight. It was a good pitch, although it was eclipsed by the last pitch, where we decided to climb an alternative called Moorhuhn winter edition. This was one of the best pitches of climbing I have been on, steep, sharp and great holds throughout. The higher I climbed, the stronger the wind, it got pretty tough near the top.
We had a relaxing afternoon at the local beach at Moraira, exploring the beach and cave. It was cool to see an entrance under the water, and after some research found that this is a cave that has been dived. I have a hope that in the future I can learn the skills of cave diving, as it’s the ultimate type of diving in my opinion.
After a couple of days off due to rain, wind and the van being in the garage, we were screaming to get out and climb again. The weather looked good and so we decided to have another crack at Toix and do the whole ridge. We climbed a slightly different route up called Ruwa, as we had already climbed Cliber (the classic route to gain the ridge) in the past. The climb itself was super easy, and we flew up with little trouble.
Once on the ridge we stopped for lunch, before flying over the ridge, after the length of the Bernia ridge, this one is tiny in comparison. Although it was quite exposed at times, it was all easy scrambling. Once we had finished our ridge climb we were nicely deposited at the crag we wanted to climb, tropical dreams. There was a large group of outdoor instructors and trainees at the crag, so we slipped in between their routes and cracked out three 6a routes, trying to to disturb their training. All in all the routes were of good quality, and although this is Toix did not seem to have much wear and tear on the routes (probably because they are at the tip of the hill).
After this we walked down the hill towards where we had started many hours earlier on Ruwa, and decided for one last route, a top fifty route from the rock fax guidebook called Espolon Limaban. We have time and again come to this crag and said how we would climb this route at the end of the day, but usually can’t be bothered, so today was the day. I have to admit that apart from a bit of polish the route was great fun, and the top fifty is clearly the second pitch as the first is somewhat average. So, all in all we had climbed a lot for one day, more than we have for months I reckon, as we only usually do one multipitch, or a few single pitches. It was a great day, and I enjoyed not climbing to my limit for the day, and just climbing some fun routes!